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что такое вискоза

 

Сейчас очень часто в составе пряжи используются вискоза и бамбук. Продавцы в магазине заверяют нас, что это «натуральные нитки». Что же это на самом деле и действительно ли они являются натуральными? И да, и нет.

 

 

 

 

 

вискозная пряжа

Вискозное волокно — искусственное волокно, вырабатываемое из натурального сырья - древесной целлюлозы, переведенной путем химических преобразований и механического воздействия  в нити.

Вискозное волокно — самое натуральное из всех волокон, полученных химическим путём. Состав вискозы очень близок к составу натуральных растительных волокон. В зависимости от назначения вискозные волокна производят с блестящей или матовой поверхностью. Изменяя толщину и характер волокон, можно получать полотна, очень похожие на натуральные — на шерсть, хлопок, шелк и лен.

Вискозное волокно было получено в 80-е годы 19 века ботаником Негели, который установил, что хлопковое волокно состоит из целлюлозы. Это открытие привело к мысли, что можно выработать волокно подобное хлопковому, но из более дешевого целлюлозного сырья - остатков древесины. Попытки получения такого волокна увенчались успехом в 1892 году, когда американцы запатентовали способ получения вискозы, который совершенствовался и модернизировался.

Для получения вискозы остатки еловой щепы и хлопкового пуха обрабатывают раствором щелочи, получают щелочную целлюлозу, которую затем обрабатывают сероуглеродом и полученный раствор продавливают через фильеры - пластины с мельчайшими отверстиями - получают струйки материала, которые затвердевают и образуют нити.

Вискозное волокно является самым универсальным из химических волокон, оно приближено к хлопковому. Волокно имеет рыхлую структуру, мягкое, приятное на ощупь, обладает высокой интенсивностью цвета и мягким блеском, имеет прекрасные гигиенические свойства (”дышит”), обладает повышенной гигроскопичностью, большой прочностью, хорошо утюжится.

Недостатком является резкий блеск. При стирке изделия часто довольно сильно вытягиваются, в мокром состоянии теряют прочность до 60%, поэтому их нельзя сильно тереть и выкручивать. Также, одним из недостатков  готовых изделий из вискозы является большая сминаемость полотна.

 

топ из вискозы

В чистом виде и в сочетании с другими волокнами или нитями вырабатывают подкладочные, платьевые, сорочечные, бельевые, декоративные ткани, верхний, бельевой трикотаж, чулочно-носочные, текстильно-галантерейные изделия (ленты, тесьма, галстуки), целлофан, искусственную кожу (кирзу). Если вискозную нить сильно вытянуть, то верхний слой нити растянется больше, а внутренний - меньше, в результате волокно получает извитость, из этих нитей изготавливают ковры. Если в прядильный раствор вискозы вмешать воздух, то получим химическую реакцию с выделением углекислого газа, в волокне образуются пустоты, эти пустотелые вискозные волокна используют для производства не тонущих спасательных костюмов. Усовершенствованным вискозным волокном является сиблон, который мало мнется, мало садится, прочный и блестящий. Его изготавливают из высококачественной целлюлозы.

В пряжу для вязания вискоза входит в составе смесового волокна, обычно с хлопком, а также с шерстью, с мохером.  Реже можно встретить пряжу из 100%-ной вискозы. Вязать из неё сложно, т.к. нить очень сильно цепляется за любые неровности на спицах или руках.

 

 

бамбуковая пряжаБамбуковое волокно  аналогично вискозе получают  путём переработки целлюлозы, но вырабатывается оно в отличие от вискозы, не из елового щепа, а из стебля бамбука.

Бамбуковую пряжу могут получать двумя способами – химическим и механическим. Во втором способе не используются химические реагенты, поэтому по праву полотно или нить, полученную вторым способом, можно назвать «экологически чистой». Однако, чаще всего по упаковке пряжи или ткани вы не сможете определить, каким способом было изготовлено бамбуковое волокно. Несмотря на то, что при химическом способе производства бамбука используются вредные реагенты, готовое полотно или пряжа также является абсолютно безопасной для здоровья человека.

По тонкости и белизне бамбук напоминает классическую вискозу, он мягкий и шелковистый.

Бамбуковые ткани обладают легким естественным блеском и эффектным внешним видом, поэтому смотрятся шикарнее хлопковых. Ткань из бамбукового волокна очень благородна. Она мягче самого мягкого хлопка и очень приятная на ощупь, по качеству напоминает шелк и кашемир. Бамбуковая одежда очень легка, легче хлопка, дает ощущение невесомости. Бамбуковое волокно обладает замечательной вентилирующей способностью, позволяя коже дышать свободно.

Волокно из бамбука отличается необыкновенно пористой структурой (структура из микропор и микроотверстий), что делает его гораздо гигроскопичнее хлопка: влага мгновенно поглощается тканью (впитывается во много раз быстрее, чем хлопком) и испаряется, обеспечивая оптимальный уровень влажности. Таким образом, человек в изделиях из бамбукового волокна практически не потеет, ткань не прилипает к коже и быстро сохнет.

В отличие от вискозы, бамбуковое волокно обладает уникальными свойствами - антибактериальными или бактерицидными (снижает воспалительные процессы на коже, т.к. сам бамбук в природе практически не подвержен нападению вредителей), дезодорирующими (препятствует возникновению запахов) и останавливающими рост бактерий.

Результаты тестов показывают, что более 70% бактерий, помещенных на бамбуковое волокно, были уничтожены естественным образом. Свои антибактериальные свойства бамбук сохраняет в процессе производства волокна. Также показано, что даже после 50 стирок волокно сохраняет антибактериальные свойства с подавлением роста бактерий более 70%.

 

топ из бамбука

Бамбуковое волокно мнется меньше, чем вискоза, не образуют складок. При этом бамбуковые ткани прекрасно драпируются и удобны в носке. Бамбуковое волокно имеет природный антистатический эффект.

В естественном виде волокно бамбука имеет кремовую, бледно-желтую окраску, однако легко поддается окрашиванию в другие цвета. В процессе использования бамбуковая ткань не теряет свой первоначальный цвет до 500 стирок.

Благодаря своим гигроскопическим свойствам бамбуковое волокно стало активно использоваться и в спортивных тканях, особенно в двухслойных (на лицевой стороне - полиэстер, на внутренней - бамбук). Ткани из бамбука прекрасно сочетаются как с роскошными, так и с самыми простыми материалами.

 

 

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